June 1st, 2009 - Volume 8

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS

 JAPAN-FPO
 

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS
Volume 8 - Index

The experts know best

Thank you for reading our e-mail newsletters.

In Japan, there is a common saying that "a rice cake maker makes the best rice cake". As you are aware, this is the same meaning as "the experts know best" in English. Here I read this saying the other way around; an amateur with hastily-acquired knowledge cannot get the best result. If applying this meaning to our field, it can be said that Fabric maker or Designer or Sewing expert makes the best thing.

This seems very true, but on the other hand, excessive division of labor may cause the lack of balance of products, or build up a production system of making a big waste.

The most important thing is the quality of linkage between each divided sector. To improve the quality of linkage, communication on a daily basis is essential. Our organization always exchanges information and opinions with designers, fabric makers and factories to maintain excellent communication. These efforts bring us high quality clothing.

We hope you will come to our information exchanging meeting and feel its quality.

Up-and-coming designers





Brand name:
aptform
Designer:
MICHAIL GKINIS

The designer, Michail Gkinis, was born in Greece. After graduating Luton University majoring in marketing, he spent 10 years in London studying men's wear at London College of Fashion. In 2003, he found the excellence of Japanese clothing fabrics while he was in Japan to work for ISSEI MIYAKE as an intern. Mr. Gkinis says, "Japanese materials have the warmth of craftsmen. Just by touching a material, it gives me an inspiration of design." He also expresses his impression of Japan, "Japan has a unique atmosphere. Buildings in urban areas are amazing. The mixture of modern things and historical things is interesting; such as old shrines existing among the hi-tech buildings. You can see many designs adopting nature, and these designs give opened spaces."

He settled down in Japan in 2006 to make products using Japanese materials, then he started "aptform" in 2007. "apt" in the brand name "aptform" means smart, superior, effective, and also has the meaning of fit to not only bodies but condition. And "form" expresses the reason he creates clothes. Items are jackets, coats, knitwear, cardigans, and small items like mufflers, hats, and gloves.

Mr. Gkinis explains about Japanese products like this; "Japanese people are gentle and kind, but when it comes to product-making, their skill and awareness of craftsmanship are powerful and strong. They always try new things. As a creator, I'm happy to work in such a rich environment." "Form follows function" the ideology of the aesthetic composition of Bauhaus, established 100 years ago, also had an impact on him. He set these four elements - industrial, nature, human value and space- as his manifesto, and reflects it on his products along with the inspirations he got from Japanese materials, environments and his Greek background.

Most of the materials are his original created from the consultation with Japanese craftsmen. For instance, the pattern on the handmade knitwear is painted by inkjet, and other knitwear has a decoration with original stitches.

Coats are made by bonding a leather and wool, and given decorations of needle punch manually. Loose-fitting pants were designed by a hint from longjohns, but a structure of fly, for example, is well-made. Elaborate fabrics are used on sweaters and cardigans, such as a cable-knitting with a cord braided, or leather processed to accordion shape etc.

Three shows of collection had been held so far. Although "aptform" is a menswear brand, it is unique that it attracts not only male customers but female customers also. Mr. Gkinis is interested in enlarge the market to the world from Japan.
Contact to:MICHAIL,LTD.
e-mail:info@aptform.com
URL:http://aptform.com



Brand name:
bethourire
Designer:
TAKAYUKI CHINO

Mr. Chino already started his career when he was a student in Bunka Fashion College. After he joined Holiday Project (06S/S) of the 1st JFW, he exhibited his collection at the project in Yokoyama-cho wholesale district of the 4th JFW. He also participated in the opening event of the Yokoyama-cho project and graduate collection at Bunka Fashion College as an up-and-comer.

He graduated from school second in the class, and began his business in April 2007. The brand name "bethourire" is a coined word from "be" in English and "sourire" in French. It means making people smile by clothes.

Items are mainly ladies' coats and one-piece dresses. He intends to enlarge the field to bags and accessories and more. Main distributors at present are in Sendai, Nagano and other provincial cities. He is interested in opening his own store in Aoyama and Omote-sandou in the future,

The theme of this season is "1965". The power of youth culture was strong in 60s. The garment manufacturing also started changing to modern way in 60s. Especially in 1965, Yves Saint Laurent and Courreges released the design of geometric lines and miniskirts, and set up a new value in fashion. On the other hand, in men's fashion, Mods got its peak and already started declining in that year. This Beginning and Ending of movement and its time background will be the motif of design.

The concept of "bethourire" is to make clothes of staying in one's wardrobe and memory, but not one of the sparkle in the moment. The good point of his clothes is to have a quality and style which ordinary people can recognize when they see his clothes and wear the ones, also it can be worn both as a daily wear and as a party dress. Fast fashion became popular lately, in which the clothes are manufactured quickly and consumed quickly within one season. Instead, he aims to make clothes that people can wear for a long time and memorable.

This brand uses domestic materials, and the sewing processes are mainly done in the factories in Tokyo, which thoroughly understand the taste of "bethourire". About the reason of locating the base in Shibuya, Mr. Chino says, "Shibuya is the fashion's center of Japan where the most sophisticated consumers gather. It is the most suitable place to generate the creator's work."

From Shibuya, he hopes to expand "bethourire" to the high "fashion-sensitivity" cities including Asian cities.

Contact to: #302 Shibasaki Bldg., 1-20-9 Jingu-mae, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0001
TEL:03-5771-6154
FAX:03-3771-6154
e-mail:chino@bethourire.com
URL:http://bethourure.com/





Brand name:
kawala BY masayoshi yamamoto
Designer:
masayoshi yamamoto / sayuri onuki /
mc sk6

This brand launched on May 2008. Yamamoto had gained career-related experiences since he was a student; won the prize at Canon digital print contest, commoditized the works for UNIQLO's on-campus contest, and came in 683rd in 12,000 at a world-wide UT grand-prix.

He partnered with mc sk6 and Sayuri Onuki on his final work at school. They printed the images of retro TV game on the knit works, which became the trigger of a "battle of wits" with the game companies and then the trigger of his entering an apparel industry.

Although they now produce various items from knit wear, parkas, nylon jackets and sweaters to bags and mufflers, their first product was a tent. Yamamoto says, "so that we can do a guerrilla-like outdoor exhibition." But, the truth is he was almost forced to leave his house due to non-payment of rent at that time.

The core style of their design is integration between 2-D expressions of textile print and 3-D expressions of knit. The brand concept is "legalization of stupidity". They create easy accessible products on the basis of their mottoes, "how to keep away from philosophy" and "how to think easy".

Fortunately, they found sewing factories and knitters who understand (or sympathize) their policy (or situation), and they work together. These factories are located in Tokyo and having a long experience with solid skill. People joke that a good eye to judge a character of designers is the only thing those experienced workers don't have.

Yamamoto explains "kawala" is named after his parents' business which is running a traditional Karate school and he was obligated to practice Karate-wari (Kawara-block break). But, probably it is not true.

Their products are now sold in shops at Shinjuku 2-chome section, and the sales area will expand more in future. They are now interested in the design of the Andean pot, which is totally different from this season's theme; retro TV game. This may become the motif of the next season. But then, Yamamoto, who is fed up with dodging debt collectors, thinks about running away to South America or Europe. Sk6, by the way, has no passport as of now.

Exhibition:Planning to have a reception party in June at a shop in Shinjuku 2-chome
Contact to: Masayoshi Yamamoto "kawala"
1st Floor, Maison Hatagaya, 5-39-7 Hon-cho, Shibuya, Tokyo 151-0071
TEL/FAX:03-5352-5679
Cell(Yamamoto):090-4454-1999
e-mail:kawala_press@yahoo.co.jp
URL:In preparation

A column about food: Kishida-ya

In this issue, I would like to introduce you to "Kishida-ya" at Tsukishima, one of the most famous beef stomach stew restaurants in Tokyo.

Taking Tokyo-metro for 20 minutes from Ginza, you will get to a traditional downtown, Tsukishima, which is near Tsukiji fish market. "Kishida-ya" is located in one of the shopping streets of Tsukishima. This shopping street is also famous as "Monja Street". As its name suggests, you can see many Monja - a pan-fried snack - restaurants along this street.

A long line always forms in front of "Kishida-ya" even before its opening time. And the tables are always full after 5pm. Many people peek into the restaurant through the curtain hanging outside of the door, and tut regretfully when they found it is full. Its good old bar counter and faded fish prints on the ceiling tell you a long history of this restaurant.

My first recommendation is "Nikomi (Beef stomach stew)". This stew is simmered with only soy-source, but this soy-source soaks through every part of meats. It is easy for everyone to imagine how tasty a marbling meat of domestic cattle is. But, who could imagine offal meats can be this tasty? This stew deserves praise for turning any parts into such a delicious dish.

Once you experienced the tasty stew, go on to a next menu, "Niku-Doufu (Meat-Tofu)". This is a dish that cut Tofu are simmered with beef and the strongly-flavored soup. It upgrades the taste of Sake.

Every cooking in this restaurant is all excellent and low price. You will be never disappointed. After enjoying good cooking and good Sake, the finale will be "Rice-ball" and "Hama-tsuyu (Clam soup)". Although "Rice-ball" is not in the official menu, the wife of the owner is readily to make a big triangle rice-ball if you ordered.
A perfectly-seasoned clam soup refreshes you. It washes away your tiredness of the day and replaces it with comfort. This feeling makes you think to come back to this restaurant again.

Many foods and ingredients carrying Japanese cuisine culture are prepared in this famous restaurant where local residents and company warriors are drinking together.