May 1st, 2009 - Volume 7

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS

JAPAN-FPO
 

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS
Volume 7 - Index

Various exhibitions were held in Tokyo.

Joint Exhibition

"White" is an organized joint exhibition associated with a Japanese historic fashion magazine "SO-EN". From April 1 to 4, "White" was held at Laforet Harajuku with gathering 35 brands of fashion and accessory this time; such as "nadell" which is specialized in organic cotton, and a gold jewelry brand "Rocco".

The following six joint exhibitions were also held simultaneously for introducing Japanese new brands during April 14 to 16, 2009. "manicolle tokyo" exhibited works by cutting-edge young creators, "avec" was composed by high-spirited designers working in western-Japan, and "BRANCE" showcased works from high-quality brands. "PLUG IN" and "trempe" displayed goods from established brands, and "JOURNEY" was a joint exhibition for men's wear.

"Hidenobu Yasui" participated in "PLUG IN" held at EBIS303 in Ebisu, Tokyo. "DRUNK ME", the first-time participant in "BRANCE" which took place at pangea solariam in Ebisu, exhibited ladies' wear using Teijin's "ECOPETPLUS".


DRUNK ME

The lineup of "DRUNK ME" was work clothing and dresses with printed patterns that evokes of wrapping paper, and so on. "BRANCE" included seven other brands such as "San Fran Disco" and "everlasting sprout" a member of Japan-FPO.


Everlasting sprout

"everlasting sprout" displayed the works from Tokyo Collection. It was a good chance to see their main items which were handmade knitwear made on this time theme "Misty Blue". "everlasting sprout" has been actively conducting exhibitions; had held an exhibition at LAPIN ET HALOT in Shibuya, Tokyo from March 30 to April 2, and will hold knitwear workshops at Takashimaya and Isetan in May.

"Yell", "YONETA", and "kawala" also held a joint exhibition at HEATHAN in Shibuya from April 16 to 17, 2009.


KAWARA

"kawala" exhibited their sort-of trademark tent and stuffed knit TV. Their other lineups are nylon jacket of mixed colors of gold, silver and black, and some additional items. A special pigment was used for this nylon material for heat insulation. Many visitors including buyers and journalists came to this exhibition and the designers of "kawala" satisfied these response. They are going to have a guerrilla exhibition at the garden in Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo on April 22.

Private Exhibition

(1)Hidenobu Yasui
Hidenobu Yasui: April 7 to 10, 2009 at Rin in Aoyama
The exhibits were mostly the works from Tokyo Collection and some additional shirts. Their theme for Tokyo Collection was "7" from the film "The Magnificent Seven".

The tabs on the waist of a two-piece dress, and on the front body of a skirt, on the front and sleeve placket of a shirt were made in the image of a bullet. A piping panel skirt was inspired by Western jackets. Their base color is monotone, and even the pastel T-shirts and the dress shirts are a little grayish. Using herringbone weave or tweed of high-quality wool, and using silk-like polyester for the shirts, their products keep elegance in the Western-style. Sewing and dyeing are all done in Japan.

They had used high-mix low-volume production system in the past, but they moved to lot production this time because of increase of order. It makes possible to keep costs low even though a quality of the products got higher due to using selected materials and sewing techniques. The pitch of the needle for shirts is 22 per 3 cm, which means it can't be repaired.

"Hidenobu Yasui's clothing inspires us to wear it", buyers from designer-labels appreciated his works at the exhibition. Now, "Hidenobu Yasui" receives business inquiries from department stores (offer to invite to limited-time shop) and specialty stores located not only in Tokyo but other areas too.

(2)Patric Stephan
Patric Stephan held an exhibition and business talk session in April for a month at an atelier in Shibuya. The items are not just apparel products but shoes and belts also. He started men's wear from the season 2009 A/W, and the main target age is 20's to 30's. His market has already been expanding to the shops in Japan.

Patric Stephan is now having a bag fair in the specialty shop "Venom" in Naka-Meguro until May 10. In there, he releases his new item waist bag. A T-shirt fair by HIRO also will be held on May 9 in Shibuya. This fair exhibits and sells the T-shirts of the designer HIRO which were remade by Patric Stephan and several other designers. All items are single items. HIRO's website: http://www.hiro-nippon.com/

JC(JFW Japan Creation 2010 Spring/Summer)

JC takes place half-yearly for introducing mainly Japanese textiles. It was held at Tokyo Big Sight for 3 days from April 8 to 10.
At "Trend & Index" zone, new materials were introduced by dividing its theme "Contradiction - Sincerity" into four categories; "Innocent temptation", "Waltz for Debby -Drifting Timbre-", "Continent of Vibrancy", "In the Mood for >> ING". There was an interchange event organized by Creator's Village in addition to the forums presented by Laurie Pressman, Vice President-Fashion,Home and Interiors, Pantone,Inc., and Yoshiharu Nakamura, editor of Senken Shinbun.

In "Eco Textile & Designers' Collection" zone, based on the Japanese sensibility and technique, works of collaboration between Japanese textiles and designers who joined JFW were exhibited. "ikkuna/suzuki takayuki" participated in these collaborations along with KAMISHIMA CHINAMI and LESSTHAN (Ohal Ando). A Japan-FPO member, suzuki takayuki designed a pullover blouse and a half pants by using Hayashiyo's linen which has natural soft texture. He also created a flare one-piece and a camisole top by using Yamazaki's soft organic cotton.

"Rajyu Lab" made underarm bags with Indian hand embroideries, which can be also used as hand-carry bag. This is going to be sold in and out of Japan.

"TOKYO YOSHIOKA" exhibited applied goods such as mesh bags and sweat-absorbing pads of which the deodorant fiber "DEW" is used. "AMAIKE TEXTILE INDUSTRY CO.,LTD." showcased their ambitious creation named "Ten-nyo no Hagoromo" which is 7 denier monofilament with a weight of 10g per square meter. That is the most advanced material beyond super organdie.

Up-and-coming designers





Brand name:
PATRICK STEPHAN
Designer:
PATRICK STEPHAN

The designer, Patrick Stephan, had developed his skill under a legendary corsetiere, Mr. Pearl, and also under Thierry Mugler and John Galliano.

In 1998, he visited to "exhibition of Japanese craft" and was impressed by a Japanese lacquer coated perfume bottle and a face powder case, which seemed representative of Japanese minimalism. And, the contrast between the ceramic-like white skin and the black hair of the model, Sayoko Yamaguchi. These things gave him a shock enough to make him move to Japan. He traveled around Kyoto, Osaka and Tokyo in 1999 for one and a half month.

His friends opposed and said, "There is no guarantee of success even though you abandon your position at Dior Couture and go to different environment in Japan." However, he said "This is my way and my decision" and started new life in Tokyo from 2000.

He felt insecure in the different country at first, but now his business is going well and he is happy with his decision. Mr. Stephan says that Japanese products are obvious at a glance because the quality of Japanese materials and sewing techniques are high. When he shows his products in Paris, people often ask "Is it made in Italy?" He always proudly answers, "No, it's made in Japan."

Items range is wide from jackets and blouses to small things like bags, belts, scarf and purses. Fabrics are mainly natural materials such as wool and cotton, and leather also used often. These give a sense of elegance on his products.

This year's theme of "Patrick Stephan" is "ANDROGYNOUS". For instance, by using feminine chiffon as a liner of mannish black leather blouson he makes clothes having poetic qualities. It expresses a well-balanced mixture of strength and weakness existing in women.

A French designer merged Japanese materials and sewing technique with esprit and couture skill from Paris. It is hard not to hope this new "Made-in-Japan" will spread to the worldwide.


Contact to: Espace Co., ltd. #205, 2-4-1 Nishihara, Shibuya, Tokyo 151-0066
Tel: 03-6240-1851
Contact person: Megumi Unozawa
e-mail: espace@image.ocn.ne.jp
URL: http://www.patrick-stephan.com





Brand name:
Rajyu Lab
Planner:
Yoko Hirayama

Rajyu Lab has an own atelier in New Delhi in India, and produces handmade embroidered products.

Indian embroidery is famous for delicate stitches. It has developed for royalty and the aristocracy, and its techniques of using many kinds of thread and spangles have been inherited and accumulated for a long time.

Although OEM of embroidery materials is a main business of Rajyu Lab, this brand also produces its original product of silk stoles and sells them in India and Japan. In addition, it undertakes embroideries for costumes of stage plays and musicals as well as custom-ordered wedding dress. The stoles and saris that Rajyu Lab made in collaboration with Japanese designers get high reputation among the wealthy people in India and customers in Japan as a chic and sophisticated new design. To make a differentiation from local products, this brand uses Japanese high quality fabrics like Nishijin-ori to their products, and this is also effective as countermeasure for pirates.

These items in the photo are finished with various techniques; "shadow work" technique on which you can see the back embroidery from face side like a watermark, "cut work" technique on which the foundation cloth is cut after embroidered, and very popular spangles ones include Indian precious stones for decoration. Those products are all handmade. "Shadow work", for example, takes more than 100 hours to complete it even by experts.

For design of apparels and clothes, Rajyu Lab prepares these many samples of materials as well as the original embroidery products. Furthermore, Japanese staffs take charge of each process from design meeting to delivery for convenience.

Bags were recently added to the items. This is also made in Japan from sewing to the very last process. It is going to be sold in India as a made-in-Japan product from next year.

As a member of BRICs, the fast-growing India is expected to expand the high-end market in future. Rajyu Lab is aiming to sell their Japan-made products to the world by utilizing Indian technique and Japanese sensibility.

Contact to: Handmade embroidery atelier, Rajyu Co., Ltd.
98 Houda, Tako-machi, Katori-gun, Chiba 289-2323
TEL/FAX:0479-70-4008
e-mail: rajyu@car.ocn.jp
URL: http://www11.plala.or.jp/rajyu/

A column about food: Shotai-en

It has been only about 140 years since Japanese people started to eat beef. Today, Japanese cattle farmers spend enormous amount of effort and technology to create the world's best beef which is tender fatty meat that melts in your mouth. Some of the best beef are even priced US$3,000 per kilo.

I am going to tell my favorite restaurants to you, the buyers who come to Japan. These are the restaurants serving the high quality meat at reasonable price.

First one is "Shotai-en" located in downtown Tokyo.

[First met]
"Shotai-en" has now become a very famous restaurant having a branch even in Ginza, a luxury-brand area of Tokyo where Hermes and Prada, Chanel are standing side by side. My first visit to "Shotai-en" was 10 years ago. I ordered a recommended "salted short rib". After I roasted it a bit and put wasabi-soy sauce on it, I popped it in my mouth… what a tender meat it was, I couldn't believe it was a roasted beef.

I had tried out the food at many restaurants back then, and I considered myself as a decent gourmet, but this rib was exquisite.

Other dishes also impressed me by their freshness. Colors and tastes were different than usual meats. What surprised me was not just the quality, but the price. Comparing to high-class restaurants, the gap of the meat's quality and the price was surprising.

Since my first visit, I became a frequent visitor to "Shotai-en" with family, friends, relatives and business partners. The people I took to this place also liked it and became regular customers, then they took their friends and they liked it... "Shotai-en" got more fans.

I look forward to visiting "Shotai-en" with you someday.

[About menu]
My recommendations are "salted short rib" with putting wasabi-soy source, and fresh variety meat such as "beef liver sashimi", "beef tongue", "Harami (meat around the diaphragm)", "Mino (beef tripe)", and "Horumon (other offal meat)". You can enjoy the different tastes of parts.

And, this one is not on the menu but I recommend "Chibi-Hire" (mini-fillet). This is hard-to-get meat. Reservation is necessary.

Other than meat, the first thing that comes to my mind is "grilled long green onion". It is a very simple cooking, but seasoning is superb. The second is "rice". In Japan, people say, "if the restaurant serves tasty rice, they serve good food for sure".

And to top off the meal with a tapioca coconut milk with ice cream float is my favorite way. Their handmade vanilla ice cream with a lot of vanilla beans is amazing. It tastes rich and definitely makes you happy.

Shotai-en
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