JAPAN FASHION WEEK in TOKYO 2010S/S
TOKYO COLLECTION WEEK (19-24 OCT. 2009)
NEWS REPORT

mintdesigns
October 19th, 2009 at TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM, The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures

The exhibition of mintdesigns by the designers, Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi, was held beside the pond at The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures. The theme for this time was "Kirakira, Pikapika, Hirahira, Fuwafuwa, Sukesuke, Sarasara (Twinkle, sparkle, flutter, fluffy, clear, smooth)". Wearing a stereoscopic veil on the head, the models displayed pale-colored, transparent-feeling clothes made of chiffon and organdie. These creations shined beautifully with the backlight. Also, the models showcased luxury taste clothes; long gloves that remind you of a noble woman, and frock coat-like jackets and so on. "mintdesigns" recently collaborated with "Toraya", a traditional confectionary shop. This brand has a great potential in wide-range.

Hidenobu Yasui
October 19th, 2009 at Tokyo Midtown Hall B

The collection by Hidenobu Yasui, who started men's wear for the first time in this show, was opposite to "decorative". All creations were simply-designed and having a restrained beauty with using white or gray or beige. Yet, when looking closely, there were many playful touches in these simple creations: half-hidden buttons on blouses, a skirt of which one side was shaped like a tube, a peaked-lapel jacket with a deformed welt pocket, etc.

suzuki takayuki (Installation)
October 21st, 2009 at Art Complex Hall

The venue was the basement of a western-style brick house in a residential area. The whole room was covered with white cloths and a big photo panel of women in motion was placed on the wall on one side, and about 20 creations were displayed in the room. This was an installation that showed by the change of music and lighting. The creations were black and white jackets and one-piece dresses; however, their expressions are various and nuanced depending on the combination of the materials because of the same effect of Japanese painting which has many kinds of black.

everlasting sprout
October 21st, 2009 at Belle ?poque College of Beauty second school building

Above the runway, many white and unbleached clothes hung on the laundry lines. The models walking under them were wearing white lace gloves, tiaras and earrings. Starting with a black mini dress, the models appeared as adding colors little by little each time. The last two creations seemed like a grand sum of a knitting technology, because they were made of combination with various threads and knitting patterns. Yet, those two bright clothes were also created to fit to its theme of "color thief"; they stole red from strawberry, blue from sky, green from garden and yellow from roof.

Matohu
October 22nd, 2009

The new collection by Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi was featuring "ORIBE II" which is from a continuous series of "Beauty in the Keicho period". They interwove a bright and novel idea into the original quietness and pleasant tensed mood. The exhibition room divided into 3 spaces by curtains reminded you of a Japanese traditional house structure. The show went on quietly while the background sound was changing from birds' singing to water chimes. Oribe's characteristic green and Sen No Rikyu's favorite black were expressed by the use of colors on the materials. Their playful spirits appeared in their original ceramic buttons.

AKIRA NAKA
October 24th, 2009 at Taito Designer's Village

The exhibition room at Designer's Village was packed with the audience and the auditorium seating almost reached the very edge of the runway. It was raining outside, but a loud sound of fake storm noise was echoing inside. Featuring "Femininity" this time, snow leopard pattern blouses, leather items with gold fastener and accessories, and other exotic skins vests and jackets were displayed. Although the collection seemed rather "Mannish", the designer Akira Naka explains that "Femininity" still remains even if a woman wears "Mannish" clothes.

MIKIOSAKABE
October 24th, 2009 at Taito Designer's Village

The venue was in the gymnasium at Designer's Village, and decorated with a small platform and a panel with sunset sky painted on it. The exhibition was featuring "Twilight" in the image of 90s. The designer, Mikio Sakabe, explains, "In the era without internet and cell phone, finding what we really want was easier than today's society flooded with information." Black and gray jackets, leather miniskirts, pleated skirts, and many other items with black-themed various materials harmonized with the background sunset sky.

writtenafterwards
October 24th, 2009 at Taito Designer's Village

"Gods' fashion show - a gift from God" by writtenafterwards was the last show of JFW Tokyo Collection. The designer, Yoshikazu Yamagata, explains about the show, "Going back to the origin of fashion and creation". The models wearing costumes hinting of Twelve Olympians like Zeus, Apollo and Dionysus came down to the dark stage with the backlight. Among them there were old men who used a paper tube as a stick. The creations utilized unbleached cloths which were left at production sites. The designer created the clothing only by wrapping, tying and stacking those cloths. This was again a very Yamagata's exhibition.

JFW Exhibition

TARO HORIUCHI
October 27th-29th, 2009

Many people attended the cocktail party held at "clementsalon" in Aoyama on October 27th. Taro Horiuchi's collection of this time was created with three keywords; "Religion", "Time" and "Nature", which are representing "beauty" in his definition. The venue was once a beauty salon, now it is a nice exhibition place paved with natural stones and eucalyptus leaves and lighted with the sunlight through the window. His monotone colored creations looked simple at first glance, but each of them was elaborately made; a jacket, for example, has a flap that is connected to the side panel, also has handmade welt-pockets, and a facing without seam joint. His creations are like works made by a skilled worker. In the exhibition, Taro Horiuchi showed his creative world by making custom-made accessories, and projecting the video of streets of Tokyo, which was also interestingly processed like half-whiteout or empty shots.

SACHIO KAWASAKI
October 27th-29th, 2009

In the venue at the basement of The Art Complex Center in Shinjuku, the collections of Sachio Kawasaki featuring "sea" were displayed spaciously. Since Sachio Kawasaki grew up by the sea enjoying sea-bathing and fishing, he painted the sea with watercolors and then printed it on fabrics with silkscreen and hand printing. The materials were various such as silk and cotton and so on, and among them the feeling of fibrillated cupra rayon seems nice for a summer wear. His distinctive snaky pattern is used on blouses and skirts. Leggings were added to the collection, and a black-color collection also displayed this time.

aethere
October 27th-29th, 2009

A French designer, Adrien Escaravage's show was co-held with SACHIO KAWASAKI. Japan is his favorite country since his last visit, and he participated with the theme of "Misseducation". His collections are unique and tricky-designed with esprit; there were a knitwear which has different collars in front and back so that you can wear it in two ways, and a skirt that you can wear as a mini dress when pulling it up to the chest. Also, he displayed a collection of works named after his friend's name like kuniko, tomo, mayumi. The dress in the photo was named sachio.

PATRIC STEPHAN
October 20th 30th, 2009 at ESPACA

Patric Stephan had been creating women's wear only, but he was receiving the request of men's wear from male customers who had bought his products as unisex use. Finally he added long awaited men's wear to this collection for the first time. The theme was "Uniform". He has military personnel in his family and seemed it had affected the exhibition. There were leather jackets and shirts with the right and left flap pockets and epaulets. He also made aiguillettes, which are worn on military uniforms, and used them on T-shirts as a motif. His range of leather item is expanding to wallets and women's shoes too.

Japan Creation, a textile exhibition, was held

JFW Japan Creation 2010 AUTUMN/WINTER was held at Tokyo Big Sight from October 7th to 9th.
Featuring the strongest points in Japanese textile, "Expressions by Dye / Post-processing", many companies of textile, dyeing and post-processing gathered in Japan Creation. In the annual academic-industrial cooperation program, 12 groups of students from ten fashion schools such as ESMOD Japon and Tokyo Mode Gakuen held an exhibition of apparel works they made in collaboration with textile companies. Three companies including TOKYO YOSHIOKA cooperated in fabric making, and eight companies including INOUE PLEATS cooperated in processing this year.
JAPAN JEANS ASSOCIATION, covering from denim fabrics to products of jeans, took part in this textile exhibition for the first time and appealed "Japan Quality" of jeans and its ecology activity. It also provided a space where visitors could try indigo dyeing.
Japan Creation prepared five seminars such as "Japan-Quality of jeans drawing attention worldwide" by Mr. Michikazu Kobayashi, Senior Management Director, Edwin Co., Ltd., and "Changing of apparel consumption" by Mr. Yoshiharu Nakamura, Chief of Editing Division, Senken Shinbun Co., Ltd.


A fashion show of pigskin, "PIGGY'S SPECIAL", was also held since pigskin leather is produced in Tokyo too. In the show, two JAPAN-FPO members, AKIRA NAKA and MIKIO SAKABE, displayed their works under the themes of each "CROSSGENDER" and "TWILIGHT". They attracted many visitors.


In the exhibition, MICHAIL GKINIS of "apt form" showcased the suits made of mixed fabrics of hemp and wool which were manufactured at Furuhashi Weaving Co., Ltd., and "matohu" showcased women's knitwear made of pile rayon fabrics by OKADA TEXTILE and special twisting wool fabrics by NOGUCHI Co., Ltd. Also, "Rajyu Lab" exhibited materials having Indian embroideries on printed handkerchiefs, and displayed Japanese traditional Hina-Dolls which dressed in the embroidered costumes.

Business support seminar at Taito Designer's village

JAPAN-FPO regularly holds seminars for the members and designers who want to expand their business.
On October 8th, a seminar "Manufacturing and Buying at TOMORROWLAND" was held by Mr. Takaoki Akiyama, a member of Merchandiser Incubation Team in TOMORROWLAND Co., Ltd.
More than 60 people came to listen to Mr. Akiyama who has many experiences from a sales representative at a major apparel manufacturer to a merchandiser for specialty shops.
In the seminar, Mr. Akiyama told many insightful advices such as "Information and feelings you got at sales sites are important in marketing", "New product has to be created with the best quality of everything at every process; material, sewing, shop design, and service to customers etc. To do that, a production has to be worked by a team and we have to give it more time", "Japanese craftsmen's skill and their involvement in work is amazing", "Each person has a different sense, but sense of value to quality can be shared", "Sales operation system and business model should be changed depending on the time", "Every brand has to establish individuality, strong point and specialty which can imagine a target customer". These words must have stimulated the audience, especially the young who want to start business.
Mr. Akiyama ended the seminar with saying, "As a vision for the future, getting new ideas and information by exchanging ideas with people from other business fields, I hope to develop new original brands more and more".

Hot news ranking of Japan's fashion
- September 16 to October 15

With the opening of Tokyo Collection Week just around the corner, "Maisons" started sending the invitations in the early October.
The most high-profile topic in this month was two major brands' new attempt; GUCCI used "supplements" and LOUIS VUITTON used "Facebook" to exploit new customers.
There were also two topics that revealed fashion industry is still in severe condition: L'ECLAIREUR TOKYO is going to close, and Yohji Yamamoto Inc. applied to the court for bankruptcy rehabilitation.

#1. A flood of reservations! "Numero TOKYO" November issue goes with GUCCI's postcard and envelope

The fashion magazine, "Numero TOKYO, November 2009 issue", will be on sale on September 28th with GUCCI's postcard and envelope. The online stores already have been overwhelmed with pre-orders. It must be sold out immediately.
The magazine is featuring "GUCCI" in this issue, including the report of vintage shopping by the creative director, Frida Giannini.
But, the biggest eye-catcher is this "luxury" presents for the readers; GUCCI postcard and vinyl envelope. "Numero TOKYO" had offered high-level presents such as Louis Vuitton's mouse pad and mastermind JAPAN's key cover in the past, which were highly supported by the readers. This time also won't be exception.

#2. UNIQLO's +J got off to a good start; immediate sold-out at home and overseas

A new collection of UNIQLO and world-famous Jil Sander, "+J", was released worldwide on October 2nd, with a good start.
About 90 of UNIQLO's large stores sell "+J". Among them, "UNIQLO Paris Opera" started selling "+J" on the occasion of the grand opening ahead of other stores. There was a long line of more than 800 people waiting for the store to open. Also about 800 people formed a queue in front of "UNIQLO Ginza" which sells all items of "+J".
On the weekend, customers who wanted "+J" items crowded into UNIQLO's mega stores in metro area. A UNIQLO spokesperson said, "+J is selling very well both at home and overseas."
The online store which started sales at 9am on the same day also received a rush of orders. Within 3 days, popular items like men's jackets, accessories, women's shirts and coats were all sold out. Since there is no plan to additional production of the same item, all items are limited products.
The design of products are simple and sophisticated having sharp silhouettes by straight cut, which is Jil Sander's specialties. People appreciate high quality of the materials and sewing also. These reasons and accessible price seem to attract people of all ages.

#3. LOUIS VUITTON started real-time distribution of the latest collection

At 2:30pm on October 7th on Paris time, LOUIS VUITTON broadcasts the spring/summer 2010 women's collection over "Facebook", a social networking service. It is the first attempt of its kind among luxury brands. The latest collections of the designer, Marc Jacobs, are broadcast live from Paris Fashion Week. The viewers can leave the messages, and the video of the show can be replayed only in the same page within 24 hours after the show.
LOUIS VUITTON takes a new step forward to digital media on this occasion.

#4. Yohji Yamamoto Inc. applied to the court for bankruptcy rehabilitation, signed a sponsorship deal with an investing company

#5. L'ECLAIREUR TOKYO is going to close

#6. Sanyo Shokai Ltd. shortened the contract with Burberry Ltd. until 2015

#7. UNIQLO Ginza started Men's building! Reopened as a bigger store preparing all items from "+J"

#8. Gap's mega store is coming in front of Harajuku station! "Gap Flagship Harajuku" will open on November 7th

#9. "ART CONVENIENCE STORE" got so popular, the second one will be open worldwide!

#10. PUMA enters the cell phone market, starts "PUMA Phone"

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