October 1st, 2009 - Volume 12

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS

 JAPAN-FPO
 

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS Volume 12 - Index

Street and Mode,
Chaos of subculture

Rise of young designers; what we can see in Tokyo Collection

Japan Fashion Week, aka JFW, opens from October 19th. About 45 brands will have a show in this event marking fifth anniversary this year. JFW is organized by the government and the private sector for enhancing the global competitiveness of the Japanese fashion industry. In these five years, more and more young designers have gotten to participate in JFW, and budding designers who studied abroad have begun to move back to Tokyo.

What I want to make clear here is: it is not that only the "Maisons" having a show in JFW always get an attention, rather, "Maisons" having exhibitions outside of this event present more attention-worthy lines which added the spice of subculture. The clothes of Tokyo Street fashion style or the extreme high-end casual wear cannot be seen anywhere but Japan. Men's brands such as "N.HOOLYWOOD" and "JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN" have been releasing new collections ambitiously. These "Next Generations" lead the fashion industry in Tokyo.

On the other hand, at JFW, the "incubating" approach to young designers is achieving results. Designers in their late 20's to mid 30's are gaining power in the market, and their concepts of the design also got matured. In recent years, many of those designers have already expanded the business to other countries such as China, Korea, Singapore and Taiwan.

"mint designs" reminds us of contemporary art. This brand has the taste of both pop and dark sides of Tokyo. It is interesting that this "two faces" expression seems to reflect modern society of Japan. Even though the brand does not intend to include social meanings in the creation, the designer's idea makes us conscious of society.

"matohu", always presenting calm and urbane motifs, gets the ideas from Japanese Kimono. Its quiet collections express Japanese mentality which is disappearing from people in today's Japan. "SOMARTA" shows the image of a stronger woman. This brand thoroughly researches skin and body structure to generate the near-future style. Releasing a bold body-armor dress, and unique clothes which are hinting the image of a human phantom, SOMARTA's collections have been always extraordinary.

The course to hold exhibitions in Tokyo via building the career at Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp in Belgium or Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in England seems to be established. Saturated condition in European Collection Week is one of the biggest reasons for Japanese young designers to return to Japan. Usually JFW does not spare the space for young designers, especially independent designers, however, a group of studied-abroad designers such as "Akira Naka", "Mikio Sakabe" and "writtenafterwards" are getting power and continue to hold shows in today's Tokyo.


"Akira Naka" has been presenting sensitive creations expressing a woman's mentality and dual nature. The languid-looking models on the catwalk wear edgy clothes of sharply cut and dull luster. "Akira Naka" also releases "Gradation knit", which contains a plain wool material and a knit fabric in one dress; the changeover part between the wool material and the knit fabric is gradation. This unique technique of knitting is essential for the brand to express its identity. "Mikio Sakabe" and "writtenafterwards" present visually unique collections implying an irony toward commercialized fashion industry. The factors of lightness, pop and subculture of Tokyo take a bigger part than being "stoic" in their collections.

Report of "TEXTILE SPIRIT"

"TEXTILE SPIRIT" is an annual textile event started from last year sponsored by "Organization for Small & Medium Enterprises and Regional Innovation, Japan". With the purpose of passing on the achievement of the Japanese unique textile creation to the world and the future, this event consists of seminars, workshops, and a tour to production regions.
Under its theme "Re-encountering the origin, and growth", this year's event held two seminars by Tamae Hirokawa, the designer of "SOMARTA", and by Eiji Miyamoto, CEO of Miyashin Co., Ltd., and two panel discussions by a textile director, Kanako Kajihara, on August 27th at Tokyo Women's plaza hall and on September 21th at Faculty of Textile Science & Technology at Shinsyu University.


Ms. Hirokawa told at the seminar, "I have been reconsidering current garment production, clothes are made by going through processes of cutting, sewing and finishing based on materials and patterns. Japanese Kimono is very simple in structure and is flexible in size, but western style clothes are different. When the 'second skin' got attention, I noticed a net bag which was used as a protector for the fruit. I wondered if it is possible to make clothes with such flexibility. Since a high-tech knit machine just came out, I started working with the knit professionals to create seamless bodysuits, which was a beginning of 'Secret Garden' series. The basic idea of this series is 'to wear skin on the bones'. Then, it developed broadly. I eventually made a knit chair, car, monument and even building by collaborating with companies of other fields such as camera and car."
Mr. Miyamoto from Miyashin Co., Ltd. explained 3D woven fabrics at the seminar. He said, "I set the basis of fabric on 12 threads of each warp and weft. The number of intersection points of those 12 threads comes to 144. If you put a thread over or under the one of these points, the number of combinations comes to 144th power of 2. The combination could be countless when considering the variety of thread materials, colors and post-processing in addition." The technique of weaving 3D fabrics makes it possible to create double or triple layered fabrics in a single weave. He also exhibited the sample of the seamless clothes which was made by the application of this technique.

TEXTILE SPIRIT URL : http://haft2.smrj.go.jp

As early autumn approaches, various exhibition were held in Tokyo.

rooms

The 19th "rooms" apparel tradeshow was held at Yoyogi National Stadium from September 16th to 18th and more than 400 brands participated this time.
"Enevare", a member of JAPAN-FPO, exhibited a new feminine bag in addition to its original discipline line. This nuanced bag features the gathers and frills with the futuristic material.
Now "Enevare" started the business with a department store in Osaka.
http://www.roomsroom.com/

suzuki takayuki

"suzuki takayuki", whose installation at this year's JFW got a good reputation, held an exhibition of Spring-Summer 2010 collection in Shibuya.

In the exhibition, it showed camisole tops, skirts and jackets of organic cotton from the brand "ikkuna/suzuki takayuki". Using the natural dye, soft colors like "pearl gray", "opal green" and "old rose" from Japanese traditional colors were expressed on the items. "Ikkuna" means "window" in Finnish, and the brand name contains a hope of expanding suzuki takayuki to the world. The first boutique, "suzuki takayuki placed", opened at Parco Part I in Shibuya on September 18th.
http://www.suzukitakayuki.com/

White

"White", a joint exhibition collaborating with the traditional fashion magazine "SO-EN", was held at Laforet Museum Harajuku in Shibuya during September 16 to 18.

Factories supporting Japanese Fashion

Bellezza Co., Ltd.

Pursuing the best stitch technique for ladies' wear

The former company of "Bellezza" was launched in Tokyo as "Takezawa Dress" by the present chairman, Kouichi Takezawa in 1970. It changed the name to "Bellezza" in 2006. In recent years many of domestic sewing businesses have been shifting to China, and remaining companies employing many workers have to take on unwilling jobs to keep the company in business. To avoid such a situation, "Bellezza" was launched as a company for specializing in small lot high-quality products, which can be made only in Japan. Since its inception, the company has been making ladies' wear ordered from major apparel companies such as jackets, coats and one-piece dresses. An accepting lot size ranges roughly from 30 to 500 pieces. It also deals in knitwear during the off-season of heavy-material clothing, so it handles various materials including silk, velvet, leather and knit fabric. "Bellezza" is recently enhancing a planning and proposal ability so as to create products which can ask for a cost by buildup approach, in addition to a work of processing charges.

The strong point in "Bellezza" is excellent skill of special stitches. It has been dealing in crewel hand-stitching since its opening, and owns all sorts of stitch machines and prepares various kinds of threads. The company's own original stitch sample book used for apparel planning is very popular with designers.

Clothes without seam allowance

Some companies take on only embroidery works. In those companies, embroidery can be done only on the parts materials or on the materials which are before or after the sewing process. On the other hand, a sewing factory like "Bellezza" can embroider on anywhere; even between the sewing processes. That is an advantage of this company.

With application of this technique, "Bellezza" lately created a "jacket without seam allowance". This was made by butted seam, and it required so much study for the sleeve attaching and collar attaching processes. The finished jacket is light and soft, very comfortable to wear because there is no touch of seam allowance.

Reputation goes around by word of mouth

"Bellezza" is sometimes asked to make unusual dresses like a musician's costume which, for example, is decorated with 18 skull-shaped buttons which cost \10,000 a piece. The reputation of such advanced technique is spread by word of mouth, designers and people from apparel companies often visit "Bellezza" to get some hints for their new products.

The factory is located near Narita Airport. Since the popular "Ami Premium Outlets" opened recently, "Bellezza" has been included to a course of the fashion tour. But, the true aim of "Bellezza" is to keep improving the sewing skills as a company with a planning ability. (From the interview with the president, Katsumi Takezawa)

Bellezza Co., Ltd.
CEO: Katsumi Takezawa
Address: 1680-1 Migimomi, Tsuchiura-shi, Ibaraki, 300-0837
Tel: 029-841-8350 Fax: 029-841-8351
e-mail：takezawa@che-bellezza.com

Hot news ranking of Japan's fashion
August 16 to September 15

With the arrival of September, the JFW schedule had been set and every brand gets moving with it. Although some of popular men's brands like N.Hoolywood, FACTOTUM, JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN already finished their shows, a famous brand UNDER COVER released news of opening a long-awaited official online store. Also, the best-selling men's shop, ISETAN, will start the online shop. These news are worth paying attention because an online store appeals to young people familiar with computers.
A JAPAN-FPO member, "matohu", won the new designer award at Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix sponsored by Mainichi Newspaper Co., Ltd. As creating items which reflected traditional Japanese beauty, this brand is building a position of a top creator.

#1. "ISETAN Men's Online Shop" opened on September 4th gathering 300 brands

ISETAN's e-commerce site, "ISETAN MEN'S ONLINE SHOP" opened at noon on September 4th, 2009.
"START TODAY", who operates "ZOZORESORT" (http://zozo.jp/), and its subsidiary company "START TODAY CONSULTING" announced the opening of the online shop of ISETAN which entrusted them with e-commerce site management support business.
"ISETAN MEN'S ONLINE SHOP" prepares about 2,500 styles from 300 brands, including popular creators' brands which have a shop in ISETAN Shinjuku Men's building, and also the brands which are world-famous but rare on online shops.

#2. "UNDER COVER" opened the official online store finally!

A charismatic popular brand "UNDER COVER" starts the first official online store at the online department store, "thecorner.com". The opening date is scheduled around September 20th, 2009.
One of the YOOX Group's original sites "thecorner.com" started new pages for about 30 of ladies' brands from September 9th, 2009 in addition to men's sites; brands are Rochas, Haider Ackermann, AF Vandervorst, Proenza Schouler, Charles Anastase

#3. Report of a midnight big shopping event "Fashion's Night Out"

Since the first issue in 1892, "VOGUE" has been leading world fashion. Based on the idea of Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of American VOGUE, the world's first shopping event "Fashion's Night Out" was held in 13 countries. In Japan, it was held on September 11th, 2009 in Omotesandou & Aoyama area.
The opening ceremony was held at the grand central stairwell in Omotesando Hills, and the editor-in-chief of VOGUE NIPPON, Mitsuko Watanabe, explained about FNO and introduced charity projects in which many celebrities participated. Her strong message of "rediscover the greatness of fashion" was very impressive and it showed her special feeling for the event.

#4. The 27th Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix prize went to Yasuko Furuta, designer of "TOGA", and New designer award went to "matohu"

The 27th Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix ceremony was held in Tokyo. The grand prix prize went to Yasuko Furuta of "TOGA". New designer award went to Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi of "matohu" and they received \1,000,000 from Shiseido Co., Ltd. Amiko Kujiraoka award went to Youko Ohara, an honorary president of IFI Business School, and Popularity award went to UNIQLO, Fast Retailing Co., Ltd.
Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix, established in 1983, honors persons or corporations or associations who contribute to Fashion field as a cultural activity throughout the year. This year's Grand Prix winner Yasuko Furuta received New designer award in 2003, she has been gaining a high reputation since then.
New designer award winner "matohu" has been sublimating the fusion of Japanese style and western style into its creation.
Amiko Kujiraoka award is sent to an achievement in the fashion industry. This year's winner Youko Ohara serves as an honorary president of IFI Business School which is one of the earliest schools that realized the potential of the fashion business and started training students into professionals. Popularity award went to UNIQLO who is trying to make the company statement come true: "Change clothes, change common sense, and change the world."
"matohu" had a fashion show at the party after the ceremony, its collection created from Japanese sense of beauty attracted the guests.

#5. Margaret Howell opened "MHL. DAIKANYAMA" - the world's first MHL only shop

#6. Renown sold "aquascutum" to British "Broadwick Group Limited"

#7. Girl's fashion magazine "PINKY" decided to suspend publication after the December issue

#8. More than two million visited Forever 21 Harajuku in four months

#9. 500 people lined up for "kitson studio", the second "kitson" shop! "Yukkina" was the first "celeb" customer who shopped about \170,000.

#10. "48-hour premium sale"; a membership shopping site "glamour-sales" finally opened

Comfort Food for Young people: Gyoza No Ousho

In this weakening economy, one restaurant chain in Japan has kept recording the highest growth rate since its establishment.
The lines of the waiting people in front of this chain's restaurants are never gone during the opening hours. The name of this franchise chain is "Gyoza No Ousho".
Kyoto-based "Ousho Food Service" is a Chinese restaurant chain mainly serving fried dumpling. It has more than 500 chain stores across the country.
A franchise restaurant usually uses "central kitchen system" which sells the same menu in all chain stores. However, in "Ousho", the manager in each restaurant has an authority to decide what to sell other than designated basic dishes. Each restaurant has an open kitchen in which the customers can see the cooks are vigorously cooking inside.
Some restaurants prepare the special low-price menu for poor college students, and some serve the food in return for dishwashing for 30 minutes.
The secret of this popularity is low-price by merit of scale of franchise chain, and the optimum menu in consideration of the area and location.
Furthermore, "local flavor's menu" is often provided and it is loved as the "comfort food" by the local people who are also repeaters.
A popular TV talk show by young comedians recently featured "Gyoza No Ousho", and it boosted up this popularity more.
This "comfort food" for Japanese young people has started to be exported to Thailand, Singapore and China as a starter of a franchise Japanese food.