 To become a trendsetting place for the "post-Classic & Luxury" fashion
- Hopes and Fears for Tokyo Collection-
By Akira Oda, Fashion Journalist
Tokyo Collection has four unique aspects which make it different from Paris' and Milan's.
First aspect is designers. Tokyo Collection still has designers who have an original idea that was freed from restriction of bodyline. They try to bring their unique silhouettes or lines in clothes-making.
So to say, the "Conceptual fashion designing" attitude that prevailed in Paris in the 80's is continuing here.
The force leading a stream of strong clothes started by Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela, which is now spreading to young designers in London, still survives in Tokyo Fashion.
"Classic & Luxury" had been driven by the established European big brands. Now, the world waits for arrival of new fashion. Someday Tokyo Collection may get the attention as a birthplace of post-classic fashion.
Tokyo has an original fashion sense which is affected by street style. These designs are so different from western collections that some says even John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld got inspiration.
But then again, this power has also limits, and there are some objections about putting "street style" on the stage of Tokyo Collection.
 The third aspect is the special materials produced in the traditional production areas located all around Japan.
From Milan's big brand like Prada and Jil Sander to Paris' couturier, many famous brands pay attention to not only Japan's unique materials, but also a promotion ability that faithfully responds to orders of any lot size.
Kimono-making tradition and a cutting-edge technology, combination of these two elements supports the base of fashion in this country.
The last aspect is Japanese company's conscientious business attitude.
Products with beautiful-finish and steady quality have satisfied many overseas buyers.
Japanese companies had been developing by learning from other companies like making many defect products or being noncompliant. The real strength of Japanese company is a faithful and diligent attitude in creative ability.
Although having said that, it is true that there are some fashion journalists often saying that Tokyo Collection is getting boring.
Tokyo Collection in the 80's was collecting nearly 100 designers and had a second biggest scale after Paris.
It had a huge power and attracted everyone's attention both inside and outside of Japan.
There were reasons it kept such a power: Tokyo's major brands that had had exhibitions at Paris Collection presented their lines at Tokyo Collection too, and that led the show.
Apparel makers in Tokyo had been generously investing in young designers.
Even small brands came out from a street could participate to the show.
Overseas brands that targeted Tokyo market had exhibitions at Tokyo collection by itself or by tying up with Japanese apparel companies.
All these activities boosted up the collection.
Now, however, such brands that had exhibitions in Paris stop having exhibition in Tokyo. We cannot expect any overseas brands to come.
Street does not have an ability to develop new brands anymore. Apparel makers are too tired from the price-cutting war to invest in young designers.
But, because of being such circumstances, some designers and companies think positively.
New business is coming one after another by taking advantage of recession and environmental crisis.
Handwork businesses especially repairing and remaking are expanding considerably, and the number of custom-made shops for clothes and accessory are increasing.
A brand that deals with remaking of clothes appeared in Tokyo Collection, and it actually attracted public attention.
Japanese conscientious manufacturing ability supports this boom.
People say a country with a good brand is a country with a good craftsman.
How the designers in Tokyo respond to the world's expectation about the next fashion. Beyond the arguments about government assistance and the mess about terms of session, there are still many people who want Tokyo Collection to take back a status as a trendsetting place.
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Factories supporting Japanese Fashion
Atelier Ishikura
[Company was started at rented place after the economic bubble burst]
The original form of "Atelier Ishikura" was a sewing factory launched by a grandfather of a present CEO, Takayuki Ishikura. It was started in 1937 at Nakano, Tokyo, the place same as present location. Then Takayuki's uncle succeeded this children's wear factory in 1963. Then, Takayuki took over four employees and some operators when his uncle retired in 1994. He launched a new company "Atelier Ishikura" by renting a place. It was at the time of economic bubble burst.
From the very beginning, the CEO, Takayuki Ishikura, had a plan to develop this new company for a high-end ladies' wear. At that time, clothing production was shifting to China although the quality was still low. He sensed that China would soon catch up with the quality and there was no point in carrying on mass-production in his company. His plan was to pursue the quality of handmade, so he threw away some machines like automatic sewing devices and automatic welting machines his uncle had left.
[Started from high-end ladies' wear]
In the beginning "Atelier Ishikura" needed a support from Mr. Shiraishi, a board member of JAPAN-FPO, who had already succeeded in a high-class ladies wear industry at that time. The company soon started to get orders of high-end ladies' wear, but what they could get in those days were only troublesome work which other company would not take. Then, Takayuki Ishikura decided to devote the next three years to training to become a craftsman. Now "Atelier Ishikura" receives orders of products of \150,000 to \700,000 at the retail value. Some high-class materials they treat are worth \70,000 per meter. Cutting and press processes are done at the factory in Nakano, and sewing is done at Komaba factory near Shibuya. They accept any kind of materials; recent work was a combination of velvet and chiffon.
[Train new employee from the beginning]
The average age of operators in Komaba factory is 24 years old. People who think that seasoned skilled craftsmen make pret-a-porter are all surprised when they visit the factory. "Atelier Ishikura" hires fresh-graduates from fashion schools every year. A lot of young people are aiming to become a craftsman even in this modern era. Hiring young people and training them from the basics is the company's policy, but at the same time, these young staffs learn skills for themselves because you can work wherever you go once you get the skill.
New employees learn not only knowledge and skills of clothes-making but business manners also. The company clearly states that "a school is for studying by paying money but a company is for studying by getting paid".
[Group of experts with a bright smile]
An "atelier of experts" is what "Atelier Ishikura" is aiming to. To become a spirited and prosperous sewing factory, the CEO believes the most important thing for the company is employees' smiles.
The company arranges a representative operator for each designer and these representatives take charge of the production of their designers. Operators directly talk with the designer or patterner about the technical matters. As for a JAPAN-FPO designer, "Atelier Ishikura" had ever helped Keiichi Muramatsu of "everlasting sprout" when he had brought up a design using a woven cloth. Incidentally, a new designer this company favors now is Taro Horiuchi, who is versatile and has a great potential.
[Flexible production system]
Their acceptable order size ranges from 5 to 300, and they also accept a sample-only production. The factory organizes a group according to an order; for example, a sewing group of 12 operators consist of teams of 5 + 5 + 2 or 5 + 7. And new operators are always included in a team of 7 or 5.
The company's equipments are basically lockstitch machines, overlock sewing machines, and irons. These machines are arranged to be fit into a space of 10 square meters: lockstitch machines are located against a wall, and irons are in the back. 10 square-meters is an average size of a Japanese room. The factory managers consider operator's future, and this layout simulates a work-at-home style.
To respond to a case that someone takes off or quits, all operators are trained to have skills of every process. Everyone can work at any process from cutting to sewing; even CAD operators have a sewing skill.
"Atelier Ishikura" also hires work-at-home operators who are living in other cities in Japan. The CEO thinks they are supporting the company like a root. They worked at his factory before, and continue to work for the company even after moving out to other cities. Takayuki Ishikura believes a company is like a tree; too much branches and leaves but weak roots cannot stand, a steady tree has a strong root.
[Geographical condition and frequent meeting help to enhance skills]
Because Komaba factory is 15 minutes away from Shibuya station on foot, the CEO advises the employees to watch people's fashion in the town to sharpen the sense.
They often hold an in-house technical meeting to discuss weaknesses of products. To point out problems and to find solutions in the meeting help them to develop the skill.
Lately, "Atelier Ishikura" began to deal in special clothes which are used for an apparel company's advertisement, and for a cover page photo of fashion magazines etc. A red dress for ad of certain apparel company is one of the recent works they are proud of so much. They brought this dress by the hand-carry to New York for shooting.
[Like a beauty salon for ladies, a barber shop for men]
Consumers these days want more than just a neatly-sewn wear; they want cool fashionable stuff. To provide these clothes is a factory's role. For example, a customer at a beauty salon only requests the style and totally relies on the hair designer about techniques. In a barber shop a customer usually does not request the precise length of cut. In the same manner, when the CEO talks with a representative of a fashion design company, he focuses the topic on "what we want to make" and not mentions details of the products. He checks technical matters later at the factory because he thinks those things are factory's job.
Takayuki Ishikura says he wants to develop his company like a successful Sushi restaurant which professional chefs cook in front of the customer. What really matters is not the size of a company but the quality.
 The jacket on the photo is made by light materials. It hardly uses interlinings, and is built up by "superposition", not by "run stitch and opening". Its rounded silhouette makes the shoulders and chest, and the drape on the bottom look symmetry and beautiful.
[Expand to men's wear]
"Atelier Ishikura" started to expand to men's wear business. Items are jacket, pants and shirts so far, and these are high-end casual wear, which is also called "Ultimate Men's". The CEO can check the quality himself by wearing the products. The company has already tried in the last two seasons, and expresses confidence in the next season too. It must be so exciting to check the next "Ultimate Men's".
Name: Atelier Ishikura Co., Ltd.
CEO: Takayuki Ishikura
Address (Head Office): 2-28-34 Numabukuro , Nakano, Tokyo 165-0025
TEL +81-3-3386-7564
FAX +81-3-3386-9270
Address (Atelier): 1-33-8 Komaba, Meguro, Tokyo 153-0041
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Hot news ranking of Japan's fashion
-July 16 to August 15-
August 18th, 2009
These are the 10 top news that had been most clicked-on in the fashion news distribution site, "fashionsnap.com".
You will find what is hot right now in Japanese fashion market.
Now Japan is right at the peak of the election campaign due to the Lower House election on August 30. It is said that the Democratic Party will beat the Liberal Democratic which had governed politics for a long time. This historical change of government is expected as a trigger for boosting up Japanese economy.
In this month, the brands to penetrate Japanese market got people's attention.
A Japanese fast-fashion company will be a sponsor for the struggling "Thom Browne".
The news of MONCLER opening a company-owned retail store for the first time drew the attention. But it rather seems strange that they never had such stores before in Japan, considering its popularity.
The third news is; TOM FORD's first store in Tokyo area will be open at ISETAN Men's building, the best men's wear store in Asia.
 #1 "Thom Browne" formed a capital tie-up with CROSS COMPANY; a flagship shop will be open in Tokyo
A stable Japanese fast-fashion company "CROSS COMPANY Co., Ltd." announced it has entered into a capital and business alliance with an American company "Thom Browne".
It plans to launch "Thom Browne Japan" in January 2010, and to open a Japan's first flagship shop in Tokyo on September of the same year.
A designer, Thom Browne, has received many awards including "Menswear Designer of the Year" in 2006 at CFDA Fashion Award. He has been creating new business casual wear which overturns the conventional concept of men's wear.
Okayama-based CROSS COMPANY has been carrying on planning, manufacturing and retailing business of ladies' casual wear including brands like "earth music & ecology" and "E Hyphen World gallery". By this capital alliance with Thom Browne, it expands into men's wear and aims at 100 billion of consolidated net sales by 2016.
 #2 MONCLER opens Japan's first company-owned retail stores in Osaka
MONCLER announced two of its first company-owned retail stores in Japan will open this autumn in Osaka.
Men's will open on August 28 at Hankyu Department store Men's building, and ladies' will on September 3 at Hankyu Department store Umeda main building.
MONCLER, an established Italian premium sportswear brand, has been offering highly functional and fashionable collections, especially famous for down jackets.
Along with the main collection, GARAGE D. EDIT MONCLER, the first men's shop opening at Hankyu Men's building, sells "MONCLER GAMME BLUE" which is designed by Thom Browne from mid-September.
As for the ladies' shop on the 6th floor at Hankyu Umeda, it will provide rich collections too. From mid-December, it starts to sell "MONCLER GAMME ROUGE" that is a Giambattista Valli's premier line, and "MONCLER S" which is a new line of Chitose Abe (sacai's designer) in addition to MONCLER's main collection and a premiere line.
A new twist on MONCLER. It has been attracting fans in all over the world by mixing tradition and innovation, also functionality and fashonability. People's expectations for these two new shops are growing high.
 #3 TOM FORD's first store in Tokyo opens at Shinjuku ISETAN Men's building in August
A luxury men's wear brand "TOM FORD" opens a direct-managed shop-in-shop at Shinjuku ISETAN Men's building at the end of this August. This is the second store in Asia after Osaka, and the third will be open in Seoul.
A long-awaited Tokyo's first TOM FORD shop is placed on the best spot in the high-end custom-made clothes floor in this department store. In addition to men's wear collection, it will provide you a full lineup including custom-made services, fragrances and eyewear.
These shops were conceived by Tom Ford and designed by his long-time business partner, William Sofield. The elegant and luxury atmosphere in the beautifully designed shop upgrades a "clothes choice" action to a modern and luxury activity.
Regarding the success of "Tom Ford Osaka", his first shop-in-shop in Asia, Tom Ford said: "I was impressed by the reactions in Asia. In addition to the men's wear full collection, I will offer detailed responses to each of customer at Tokyo and Seoul as well. By utilizing the networks specialty shops already have, I am sure Tom Ford provides a satisfactory service to male customers who enjoy luxury men's wear."
This Tom Ford's new shop-in-shop at Isetan, one of the best fashion stores in Asia, will contribute greatly to expand Tom Ford brand in East Asia.
#4 Last chance! Cher's last magazine with an eco bag is on sale
#5 Collaborative works between GAP and Pharrell Williams will be limitedly released in September
#6 "September Issue"; A documentary chronicling a Vogue editor
#7 A sock brand "ayame" opens its first company-owned retail store
#8 UNITED ARROWS announced a new suit line in a price of around \40,000
#9 Louis Vuitton and Kanye West's collaboration sneaker will be on sale
#10 "START TODAY Co., Ltd." who operates ZOZO started to back up ISETAN's EC site
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A column about food:
Latest information of Tsukiji Market
 In these years, "Tsukiji (Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market)" is becoming one of the hot sightseeing spots for foreign tourists.
Seeing "Seri (auction)", which is held early in the morning in the market, is very popular. Although it was restricted for a while because of visitors' bad manner, now only Tuna section is open again.
Having a Sushi lunch near the market after visiting the auction is a normal tour course, but here we tell you fresh tips we heard from the people who work at Tsukiji Market. Read this, and you can upgrade your "Tsukiji tour".
-- Want to eat good Sushi? Go to SUSHI-BUN! --
Tsukiji fish market is divided into two sections; inner market and outer market. The outer market is a street market and many of Sushi restaurants for tourists are located there. Restaurants in the inner market open only in the morning and are not convenient for tourists. But, the restaurant we recommend here is in the inner market. Why? Because...
Sushi connoisseur's favorite, SUSHI-BUN
Restaurants and cafes in the inner market is categorized as a welfare facilities of Tokyo, so that rent is cheaper. SUSHI-BUN spends this difference to buy more wild fish. Even fish professionals working in Tsukiji market acknowledge SUSHI-BUN as a restaurant of specializing in wild fish.
*SUSHI-BUN*
Address: 5-2-1-#8, Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81-3-3541-3860
Opening hours: 6am to 2:30pm
http://www.tsukijinet.com/tsukiji/kanren/susibun/eng.html
-- Japanese traditional dessert shop in the inside market --
Where there are food buffs, there are always good dessert shops!!
Mosuke-Dango
This shop is famous for rice dumplings. You can choose from three flavors: Soy-source, Creamy red bean paste, and Chunky red bean paste.
The secret of this long-seller dessert is its natural flavor. It is simple but you never get tired of this sweet taste.
* Mosuke-Dango *
Address: 5-2-1-#1, Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81-3-3541-8730
Opening hours: 5am to 12:30pm
-- Aquarium in the fish market? --
 If you look for a hidden interesting place, "Osakana Fukyu Center (Fish information center)" may be good for you. This museum was made out of a purpose of giving people knowledge of fish you usually eat. There are fish tanks inside and it seems like an aquarium. Admission is free and it opens from 10am. How about visiting here after sushi lunch?
* Fish information center *
Address: 6-21-5 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Opening hours: 10am to 4pm
http://homepage1.nifty.com/nikaido/mus/sakana.htm
-- Watch out Turret Trucks!! --
 When you walk in the inner market, you will often see many special vehicles come and go so busily. Workers in the market skillfully handle this vehicle and get by the crowd.
This is a "Turret Truck", a famous carrier in Tsukiji; it is so famous that even a toy car of this turret truck is sold.
Turret toy website: http://akiba.keizai.biz/headline/1465/
It looks fun to drive, but actually it is quite dangerous. Turret trucks in the market have a rusted unsanitary body without a bumper, you could suffer a deadly wound if you have an accident. Doctors near the market also testify. Please don't try to get on it!!
-- Lists of websites about Tsukiji Fish Market --
Official website : http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm
Tsukiji Information center : http://www.tsukijitour.jp/01info_c.html
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