August 1st, 2009 - Volume 10

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS

 JAPAN-FPO
 

JAPAN FASHION PRODUCT NEWS Volume 10 - Index

Interview with Nobuyuki Ota,
President of ISSEY MIYAKE INC.

I had an opportunity to talk with Mr. Nobuyuki Ota, a president of ISSEY MIYAKE INC., at head office about the recent fashion trend. Mr. Ota gave us a very interesting point of view; "After a big recession, resource of fashion - trendsetting place- is changed."

New resource of fashion will be needed after a big recession

Mr. Ota visited New York recently and found that the market condition was worse than he thought. High-class brands' goods were piled up on the wagons of end-of-season sale. Basic items were also being sold at a discount, which means even they could not be sold well.
Retail shops are shifting to a low-cost management. As a result, quality of service goes down and only temp staffs are in charge of services. This style is the same as an old Japanese business model which was unpopular at that time. It seems like the U.S. is partly adopting the old Japanese style. Department stores become just an aggregation of brand shops and customers are ignored. This leads to homogeneity.
After this kind of recession, companies try to search new resource to break out of homogeneity. In the recession in 80's, a wave of bankruptcy attacked 7th Avenue also. Selling new things was necessary but everyone was afraid to try new things. Mr. Ota, who was helping Barneys New York at that time, set up Tokyo Boutique and introduced items of KANSAI YAMAMOTO and ISSEY MIYAKE. He also held a small fashion show including MEN'S BIGI and NICOLE at Mitsukoshi for getting media attention. It got a big response. Only a couple of buyers visited Tokyo in the second season, but in the third season a lot of buyers came to visit Tokyo.
In the latest recession, Tokyo, Sao Paulo and Seoul are still in a stage of "Before dawn", and Tokyo has a high possibility to become a big resource.

Casual wear will go further

Fast-fashion seems dominate the market now. The keywords of this market trend are youth, lightness, and daily-usable. In the past, for example a big high-quality bag together with a suit was one of the styles. But the big bag was replaced with a small bag or pouch having cute decorations. Not only the style but clothes themselves also change to "light" and "cute". The world's recent fashion trend is casual attire, but it can be said that it was started since French revolution. Executives in IT companies in the U.S. do not wear ties any more.
Business suits are disappearing from stores. Difficult philosophy is not necessary in the background of clothes anymore. People just want daily, life-sized clothes. A fashion trend is changing from "formal" to "charming". However, it does not mean that people want cheap stuff. They are still looking for something with a reliable quality. Average customer spend has not dropped. People who buy Fast-fashion would buy clothes of which the price is even ten times higher than Fast-fashion if they recognize the quality.
Recent approach of GIVENCHY surprised Mr. Ota. There is a rough-cut fringe design in their new collections and it has both well-calculated beauty and lightness. High design ability must be needed to create such a charming line.
The number of customers who buy the high-class brand goods by going out of their way is now getting smaller, that means the stores are getting healthier in a sense.

Japanese traditional beauty and Street Fashion

From 19 to 20 century, "haute couture" in Paris adopted many designs from Japan. Japanese designers have an original sense of beauty which Westerners do not have. Both MIYAKE and YOJI were accepted when they brought their clothes to Paris Collection because the "Soy-source" taste of Kimono was considered as unique. For example the black color, Western black is bright black; on the other hand, Japanese black is, so to speak, "shade black". This difference was new for Westerners. KENZO once said that he was overwhelmed by Japanese-chic when he had seen a sample material of kimono of 100 years ago in Kyoto. A base of Japanese creation has a rich variation of color combinations and textiles such as jacquard fabrics. Japanese fashion has been supported by high quality materials, sensitive sewing and trustworthy delivery.
Japanese Street Fashion is now an information resource to the world. Especially young people in Tokyo spend more money to their fashion than any other place. In Japan people usually have to wear uniforms in schools or companies, so a reaction against the uniform may make energy for fashion. An influence of Japanese Street Fashion is expanding on a global scale. "Cosplay" is popular now in Paris. Things like this occur always; subculture of Japan goes to the West Coast in the U.S., and it mixes the local culture there, then comes back to Japan and becomes popular again.

Workaholic buyers with a good sense are disappearing

In the past, American buyers were a fashion lover, but now most of them are a hard worker but have no sense of fashion. Admittedly, level of buyers went down lately. Similarly, Japanese buyers seem to use only their brains. Although it is essential that a buyer is a specialist of fashion, fashion buyers in Japanese major companies belong to main career track, and only a few of them has a sense and good judgment of fashion. If you cannot understand woman's heart, you cannot decide an order of clothes yourself no matter how good you are at math. For example, "SOMARTA" is a Japanese budding designer. Nevertheless, Japanese buyers make an order after other country's buyer had made an order. Maybe a buyer who has a good judgment and a brave heart for new things is decreasing. Yet, thinking buyers still visit Tokyo to feel the trend. To respond to that, Japan should send more messages and information to the world.

To Japanese designers

Mr. Ota doubts an idea of creation supremacy theory in fashion schools in Japan. A designer must understand basics of patterns, forms and sewing, and must be able to make a proper product. If you do not know what kind of clothes your design becomes actually, you are not a designer. Young designers have an ability to draw a sketch, but they need more training of clothes-making. Some young designers make mistakes to choose materials because they do not have enough knowledge of fabrics.
Furthermore, English skill for communication is necessary for the future designers to work worldwide.

Brand is not a reason to purchase anymore

Looking at the recent trend, it seems that people do not care about the brand names so much anymore. Sales clerks also answered that a brand name becomes secondary reason when people decide to buy things. People buy a product when they look at a product and are satisfied with the quality and the price. Both selling and buying are working out without a brand name. This is one of the new movements after a big recession.
Rebound from a big recession is huge. This must be a big chance to young designers for defeating this mannerism, and sending out new resource to the world.

Company name: ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
CEO: Nobuyuki Ota
Address: 1-12-10 Tomigaya, Shibuya, Tokyo 151-8554
TEL 03-5454-1710
FAX 03-5454-1711
URL http://www.isseymiyake.co.jp/

Buyer's point of view-How to decide brand selection-

Lecture meeting by Yukiko Sudo, Fashion Buyer for ISETAN "Re-Style"

A lecture by Yukiko Sudo, a fashion buyer for ISETAN department store, was held at Designer's Village in July 14, 2009. The hall was packed with the press and the members of JAPAN-FPO and the event was ended successfully. Ms. Sudo said "It is my first time to talk in this kind of event", but her talk was very interesting and easy to understand.
Ms. Sudo spent 18 years to build her career before she became a buyer, but she expressed how fun her job is now because a buyer "can do a shopping with somebody's money and also can see the newest goods before anyone else". She also talked about many real facts on the actual job; such as forecasting trend by checking the world collections and exhibitions, organizing the shops, preparing presentations for customers and press campaigns. Since ISETAN keeps the customers in 20's to 30's of age group, it is very important to reflect such customers' point of view to the brand selections. The participants actively asked questions to Ms. Sudo, and we could hear her practical and realistic stories of a buyer's work.
In the lecture, she also mentioned many interesting viewpoints; "Japanese brand and Tokyo fashion is situated on the cutting edge in the world, and they are interesting and cost performance is high", "Department stores are no exceptions in the influence of this recession, but the time like this can be used for experiment for next stage", "Fast-fashion is popular now but it does not mean that everything they bought would be usable, people may get bored soon". At the end, Ms. Sudo addressed impressive opinion to young creators; Sticking to what you want to do is important, and identity is important. I hope you will keep your passion, but you can start a business if you accept others and convert "work" into "product".

Petroleum substitute fiber for preventing global warming

As influence of global warming has become closer lately, a fiber and apparel industries also started to take actions against it. Trade-in sale and recycling of clothes are getting popular and those had spread into AEON, Ito Yokado, Daiei, UNIQLO, KONAKA, and Barney's New York. Wacoal could collect 35,000 used brassieres during two months from February 2009. These brassieres converted to 3.6 tons of industrial solid fuel (RPF).
Now, a fiber industry puts the focus on Polylactic acid fibers as petroleum substitute fiber as well as reexamination of organic cotton and bamboo fiber. At Green Expo 2009 held in Pacifico Yokohama in July 4 and 5, "ECOMACO" exhibited ladies' wear that used Polylactic acid fibers.
Around the same time, "aptform", a member of JAPAN-FPO, held an exhibition and sale of 09S/S in Ebisu, Tokyo. According to the designer, Michail Gknis, the theme was "Rain in Tokyo". He expressed the images of the color of rainy sky and wet sidewalks of Tokyo in his high quality materials, dyeing, and patterns. His pre-wrinkled coat that utilized Polylactic acid fibers used biodegradable materials in fasteners and buttons too, and is good for environment. Michail Gknis recently went to Paris for promotion, where he received a high evaluation. The buyers said they have never seen the designs like these before and were interested in his material of shredded leather that was knitted like accordion, and his unique usage of an inkjet plotter.
Aptform URL:http://aptform.com/

Factories supporting Japanese Fashion







km-sewing

"km-sewing" is located in Yashio city where it takes 20 minutes by Tsukuba Express from Akihabara station, or 5 minutes by car from Yashio-minami Exit.
It has been 45 years since the former CEO came from Toyama and established the company. From the beginning, "km-sewing" has consistently undertaken high-class clothes such as coats, pret-a-porter and products of designer's and character brands. Their skill and quality have a solid reputation. The present CEO, Hiromichi Mizutani, also is serving as director of JAPAN-FPO.

Production support for young designers
Mr. Mizutani realized the importance of the Internet early on. He opened the company's website and started the blog too by the advice from his friend.
One day he wrote on the blog that "we will support young designers". Then, designers who were looking for a factory sent him inquiries. That was the beginning of supporting young designers' work. Since then, "km-sewing" has been changing their production system to meet designers' requests. Now, "km-sewing" adopts cell production system, sewing procedures are clearly described on a pattern and specification for each operator. However, the company rewrites these patterns and specifications before actually used because it is pointless if the operators do not understand. If there is a problem on sewing, the company talks with the designers, and they change the patterns if necessary. Operators also participate in these meetings.

Sewing factory with an ability of reading a pattern and designer's intention
When AKIRA NAKA came to the factory, the company asked him to give a talk. Since then every designer who visits the factory gives a talk, and this is a good opportunity for operators to understand designer's intention deeper. Now, sometimes operators themselves ask questions to the designer.
A communication between a designer and a production site is essential. Such as confirmation of specification and adjustment of interlining, there are many important processes in a sewing factory especially when they treat new materials. Even though a designer's image is in 3-D, patterns are in 2-D. A sewing factory's job is to build this 2-D pattern up in 3-D again exactly as the designer imagined. To establish a good communication with designers, opening a factory near Tokyo is also an important element.
"km-sewing" had supported many brands including JFW brands like MIKIO SAKABE、Hidenobu Yasui, Writtenafterwaeds, Aptoform, and AKIRA NAKA, and also other brands such as LEP LUSS and SACHIO KAWASAKI. With any brand, a direct communication with a designer was the key to success. This approach works out even on the business with major companies. "km-sewing" now seems like an atelier for designers.
In apparel industry, problems sometimes happen when starting quantity production of a product which its sample were already made at sample factory. Sample is made on the premise of quantity production. To make a salable product, finalizing the details like a retail price and a specification in the sample making stage is necessary. Also, it is important to have consistency through designer's intention, sample, exhibition, quantity production. So, before starting quantity production, "km-sewing" asks the designer to check if the product really matches the target market and if the sample was made as he wanted; for instance, the shape of a collar and sleeves and so on. Trial fitting must be done on everything. In today's environment, all sewing operators in the factory have a skill to make whole clothing by themselves from a pattern and specification.

Expanding the business with own planning products
By utilization of the Internet, the number of business partners grew to 30. The company is thinking of "own planning product" as the next step. Items had been already decided and sales destination is also in sight, some samples are already exhibited. For the future, "km-sewing" is aiming to further enhance the sewing technique by cooperation with designers, and to further expand the business by the sales of own planning products

Company Information
Name: km-sewing Co., Ltd.
CEO: Hiromichi Mizutani
Address: 8-1-15 Yashio, Yashio-shi, Saitama 340-0015
TEL 048-996-1320
FAX 048-997-2034
URL http://miz.or.tv/







Fashion Shiraishi

"To strengthen a planning designing function and to become a genuine fashion apparel maker"
Fashion Shiraishi opened the factory in 1988 in Tokyo. While most of Japanese sewing companies work by the processing charge, the president of Fashion Shiraishi established a cooperative association called FGA (Fashion Gateway Alliance) with his friends in 1992 for becoming a company with a planning ability and started a company brand "NOUVE". Now, this brand is operated by Fashion Shiraishi and 30% of its total sales is earned by own planning. This brand's sales destinations are Shinjuku Isetan department store and Umeda Hankyu department store, also specialty stores in local areas of Japan. They make different products for department stores and for specialty stores. Even though a planning and pattern-making strengthened the company's ability as a maker, Fashion Shiraishi never forgets it started from a manufacturing factory. Plans are always made from the factory's point of view. When "NOUVE" was just started, they studied pattern-making and sewing so hard. They at first made about 20 samples of standard shapes which can be used as cornerstones, and then revised those samples to be comfortable and easy-to-wear. Applying a trendy design is also a key. If you miss that key, you cannot sell clothes no matter how comfortable they are.
Clothes of Fashion Shiraishi are designed to be elegant, and "Occasion" is the central idea of their design. The company builds a research team and sends the team to the actual sites of "occasion" such as a wedding or a PTA meeting. The plans that the team makes during reviewing the result in the office are easier to lead to sales. Researching an actual site gives you inspirations.

Use the strength of factory continuous production
Procurement of materials including subordinate materials becomes easier when you work on it with commercial base. Now, Fashion Shiraishi only needs two weeks to submit a sample from its planning.
The company accepts an additional order as a minimum-lot order. Fashion Shiraishi can deliver the ordered items on Friday, if the store made an additional order on Monday after considering previous week's sales. This delivery system directly from the factory is strength of this company. Furthermore, this system helps the company to communicate with the shops and makes it possible to respond to change of a plan promptly. That is a big advantage for both of them.
It took about five years until this company became to make satisfactory patterns, but it paid off. Continuous production from planning to delivery makes it possible to reflect the original intention in the finished product. If you outsource even one of the processes, it would cause a time loss and unbalance of finished quality. If you outsource even one of the processes, it would cause a time loss and an imbalance of quality in finished products. Consequently, it is apt to occur that the finished products do not have an intended quality.
Fashion Shiraishi had been enhancing its planning ability as a factory until now. A future design will depend on a designer's distribution ability. Many creators in JAPAN-FPO have a sharp sensitivity, which is important for starting of apparel production. It is also important to have a base in a large city like Tokyo where all information gathers.

Put the overseas development in vision
Mr. Shiraishi, a president of Fashion Shiraishi, went to Milan and New York this year for business expansion plan. There are many factories of casual wear in New York. Among these factories, many Italians take charge of factories of high-grade clothes. Mr. Shiraishi is now interested in whether his company can take charge of this part. His plan is like this; to start with, his company supports a pattern-making process and a sewing process of New York Collections' brands in New York, and samples making for quantity production and actual production are done in Japan. Based on the ability of Japanese designing, material and sewing quality, he hopes to expand the business to Western markets in future.

Additional information, Production in New York will start from this August.

Company Information
Name: Fashion Shiraishi Ltd.
CEO: Masahiro Shiraishi
Address: 3-16-12 Matsunoki, Suginami-ku, Tokyo 166-0014
TEL 03-3315-5334
FAX 03-3316-4980
url http://www.ifashion.co.jp/

Hot news ranking of Japan's fashion
-June 15 to July 15-

These are the 10 top news that had been most clicked on in the fashion news distribution site,"fashionsnap.com".
You will find what is hot right now in Japanese fashion market.

The biggest talked-about news in this month is a new brand of Jil Sander and UNIQLO (Japan's largest SPA company).
Since a brand name of JIL SANDER is owned by Onward Kashiyama, people wondered what the new brand's name was going to be if JIL SANDER's name could not be used. Eventually it would seem to be named "J+".
Amongst other popular news like newly opened shops, there were two sad news; Famous long-running magazines "STUDIO VOICE" and "marie claire" suspend publication. This culture magazine and fashion magazine had many avid readers, but that could not beat out a fall in ad income. Distress of a publishing industry seems to continue for a while.

#1. "+J" , UNIQLO's new collection designed by Jil Sander, will start at this Autumn
The Japanese biggest casualwear brand, UNIQLO, released their new collection "+J" which is designed by Jil Sander. "+J" is scheduled to be sold at inner-city stores in Japan and overseas along with online stores from 2009 Autumn/Winter collection.
On March 2009, UNIQLO signed a design consulting contract with JS CONSULTING in which Jil Sander is a representative. The main contents of this contract are that Jil Sander will be a design and creative supervisor of whole UNIQLO's products, and also do a design for a certain collection.
"+J" was created from this idea; "A brand that UNIQLO can be UNIQLO and provides a joy and satisfaction of good clothes to every customer as cooperating with worldwide talents." Its concept is "Opening of future". "Luxury of simplicity", "purity in design", "beauty and comfort", and "high-quality for everyone"; these ideas open UNIQLO's new possibility.
A synergetic effect generated between UNIQLO's ability of clothes making and Jil Sander's creativity will bring about worldwide success to "+J".
Since Jil Sander had already left the brand "JIL SANDER" which is affiliated with ONWARD, there is no partner relationship between UNIQLO and the brand "JIL SANDER".

#2. American celebrities' must-have drink "glaceau vitamin water" made a Tokyo debut
New York-born fashionable drink "glaceau vitamin water" started to go on a limited sale in Tokyo.
"glaceau vitamin water" has become a big hit among the celebrities in New York, London, and Paris. This is one of the "hottest" cooling beverages in this summer. You can easily take vitamins and minerals that are likely to be insufficient just by drinking this stylish water.
Reflecting health consciousness of modern people, it just uses pure water and adds no preservatives or artificial colors, contains nutrition but keeps low calories. There are five flavors available.
A limited shop "glaceau pop up" has opened on July 15 at Harajuku to commemorate selling in Japan. This will become a new spot in Harajuku where a new shop opens one after another.

#3. Japan limited edition of "Marc by Marc Jacobs" will go on sale on July 10
A New York based popular brand "Marc by Marc Jacobs" releases Japan limited edition items "MARC LOVES JAPAN" on July 10.
A world famous designer, Marc Jacobs is a winner of many prestigious fashion awards. He goes all out for his role as an artistic director at LOUIS VUITTON and his talent leads every production activity to success.
This Japan limited edition "MARC LOVES JAPAN" is released from "Marc by Marc Jacobs" which is the diffusion line of MARC JACOBS, including T-shirt, tote bag and scrunchy which makes world debut. "MISS MARC", a cute cartoon character wearing Kimono, and hearts-prints are very impressive in this series.
These limited items with full of Marc's love will be available at all stores of Marc by Marc Jacobs from July 10, 2009.

#4. The second shop of LAND OF TOMORROW is soon to be open in Marunouchi on this September

#5. Fast Retailing (UNIQLO) achieved a significant profit. Upgraded their earnings estimates again

#6. Laforet Harajuku announced the renewal plan of Autumn of 2009

#7. Ibaraki AMI PREMIUM OUTLETS made its grand opening on July 9

#8. A million people visited Forever 21 Harajuku in the two months since the opening

#9. TOPSHOP/TOPMAN will open new shops in Yokohama and Shinjuku in spring and autumn of 2010

#10. A culture magazine "STUDIO VOICE" suspends publication after the September issue

A column about food:
"TORIHARA" in Shinbashi, Atago - The Best Yakitori (Grilled Chicken) Restaurant

The famous grilled chicken restaurant "Torihara" is located near JR Shinbashi Station. Gets out from Karasumori-guchi exit of Shinbashi Station and goes into the street of drinking-place where Japanese businessmen relieve their fatigue. After passing through that street you will find the entrance of "Torihara". The wooden sliding door illuminated with indirect lighting creates high quality and tasty atmosphere. This restaurant has been popular since its opened.


The dishes you can enjoy here are grilled chickens, grilled vegetables, fresh chicken sashimi, and tasty Sake. There are more than 25 kinds of grilled chicken menus and many of them are rare parts that you can taste only when they are really fresh.
What this restaurant use for making Yakitori are chickens and charcoals only. Seasonings are just salt and sauce, very simple. All dishes are created by a combination of these Japanese sensitivities; an ability of finding the freshest high quality meat, a skill of dressing meat, a technique of grill and the right touch of seasoning.
I hope you will enjoy this Japanese great technique concentrated on one skewer of Yakitori.

Reader privilege:
You will get a free drink if you say, "I read an e-mail newsletter of JAPAN-FPO" to the staff when you order.(Until 30 November)

Restaurant Information: "TORIHARA"
Address: 1st Floor, MF Shinbashi Bldg., 4-24-3 Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-5405-1120
Hour: 5 pm to 12 am
Holiday: Sundays (Mondays if it is public holiday)
Card: VISA / MASTER / JCB / UC / DC / DINERS / AMEX